Tiny Tool Time: How to Make a Modern Flip Down Hanger from Dowel Rods Using Proxxon Tools

I've always wanted a space in our garage for hanging coats, so I decided to just make a unit with my Proxxon MICROMOT tools. Actually, this turned into a joint project with hubby. So, double win—creative partner time and a new place for coat storage.

Supplies You'll Need:

Two 1" x 48" dowel rods
One ¾" x 1½" x 17½" length of scrap wood
One 3/8" x 24" steel rod
Two 3/8" rod end caps
Five #8 1½" wood screws
Two ring hangers
Hack saw

Proxxon Tools I Used:

Follow along to make your own flip down hanger:

Cut a length of ¾" scrap wood to 17½" x 1½" for the support piece.
From one of the dowel rods cut three 4" lengths; four 4½" lengths, and three 5" lengths. From the second dowel rod cut one 5" length; four 5½" lengths, and two 6" lengths. Arrange the dowels as pictured.
Sand the ends of the dowels.
Arrange the dowels making certain that the bottoms squared. I laid them against a length of wood that I knew had squared edges. Draw a line across all the dowels 1½" from the bottom. This gives you the drilling marks for the holes for the steel rod.
Using a center finder (You can see how I made this one here.), mark the center on the end of one of the dowel rods.
Set up the bench drill press for drilling the dowels. First, clamp a dowel in the machine vice making sure the the marking from Step 4 is visible on the top of the dowel, and the this mark extends to the right of the vice with clearance for the drill bit. Set the vice in place on the adjustable fence and position the stop on the X axis (right to left) to allow the drill bit to lower on the right side of the dowel. Adjust the height of the drill press so the bit will drill all the way through the dowel. Lower the bit part way. Now, moving the vice and fence on the Y axis (top to bottom along the ruled gauge) align the drill bit with one of the center finder lines. When they are in alignment, tighten the thumb screw on the adjustable fence. Now you're set to drill all the dowels, knowing that you'll be drilling exactly through the center of each dowel.
Move the machine vice on the X axis to align the drill bit on the mark Step 4. Drill through the dowel rod. One down, sixteen to go. Remove the machine vice from the drill press and remove the drilled dowel. Load the next dowel into the vice, and repeat Step 7.
Attach an end cap onto one end of the steel rod. (NOTE: I used a smooth rod and end caps. You could opt to use a threaded steel rod and acorn nuts.)
Thread the dowels onto the rod. Measure the depth of the remaining end cap. Snug up the dowel rods. Mark the depth of the end cap on the excess rod. This marks where to cut away the excess rod using a hack saw. Cut excess from rod.
On the support piece measure and mark the placement of the ring hangers ½" from each end. Mark the screw holes on the hangers, and mark the top of the support piece. Also, mark one hole in the center of the support piece.
Drill the holes for the hangers and the center hole on the support.
Lay the support piece on top of the dowels and align the top of the support with the top of the shortest dowel. Use a square at each end of the flip down hanger to ensure the support and dowels are aligned horizontally. Using a hammer and punch or nail, tap a mark on the dowels through the holes on the support piece.
Next, drill the holes in the dowels for the screws to attach the support piece. You only want to drill about half way through the dowel, so set the stop gauge.
Drill the holes that you marked in Step 12.
Use the 1½" wood screws to attach the ring hangers and support to each end and secure the support in the center. Save any screws that came with the ring hangers for another use.
Now all that is left is mounting your flip down hanger on a wall.