How to Make a Plant Hook

Spring is in the air, and soon it will be time for outdoor plants and flowers. This easy-to-make plant hook is the perfect way to display them.

Supplies and Equipment to make the plant hook:

• 7½" x 3" wood blank
• Plant hook template
• MICRO Bandsaw MBS/E (or Proxxon Scroll Saw DS 460)
• Proxxon Disc Sander TSG 250/E
• Proxxon Delta Sander
• Proxxon Professional Rotary Tool IBS/E with MICROMOT Flexshaft 110/BF and sanding band
• Screw hook
• Sealant

Let's make the plant hook:

1. Cover one side of the blank with painter's tape. 
   
   
   
2. Print the plant hook template. Mist the back side of the pattern with spray adhesive, and mount on the taped blank. The painter's tape makes removal of the pattern easy without leaving any sticky residue.
   
   
   
3. Cut out the plant hook using either the bandsaw or the scroll saw.
   
   
   
4. Sand the exterior edges and front and back sides of the plant hook with the disc sander.
   
   
   
5. Use the Delta sander to sand interior surfaces.
   
   
   
6. Use the professional rotary tool with the flexshaft and sanding band to sand the interior curves of the plant hook.
   
   
   
7. Measure and mark the center of the top edge. Drill a pilot hole for the screw hook.
8. Apply a finish sealant to weatherproof the plant hook.

Carole

Make your own picture frame- Easy with Proxxon tools

 Hi again.  Today I am going to show you how to make a picture frame using Proxxon tools.  Mitered corners have always been a challenge but with the Proxxon mini chop saw it is a breeze, so easy almost anyone can do it.  I say almost because you know there is always one in a crowd.  Ho Ho.   Okay, back to the business of frame making.  By the way, I am going to make a little one, but you can change the length of the sides.  The width of the frame pieces however, must stay below 2 1/2 inches if using the Proxxon  mini chop saw.

Let's get started.  

Equipment and supplies

wood of your choice.  (I chose a piece of 3/8" scrap oak I had left over.

Proxxon mini table saw

Proxxon mini chop saw

Proxxon OZI/E delta sander

good wood glue

Proxxon mini drill press

Bamboo skewer sticks or similar.  could use toothpicks.

Finishing stain, sealer or wax.

I chose a piece of wood I thought would look good finished as a frame to my picture.

This is oak leftover from an earlier project.  I take it to the Proxxon table saw and cut some slats measuring 2 1/4 inches.   Don't worry about the length just yet.  Cutting the wood very straight is made super simple by setting the fence.  Use a push stick and keep your fingers clear of the saw blade.  The shield and splitter normally in place, has been removed so that we can accomplish the next task.

We are going to make a groove along one side of the slats, note the height of the saw blade is approx 1/2 the depth of the wood slat.  🠋

Move the fence to within 1/8" of the saw blade and run one side of each board through the saw blade.   Then move is just slightly out a hair and run them through again.  You will end up with a recessed edge along your soon to be short sides of the slats.  

Now set the Proxxon chop saw to cut at a 45 degree angle.  Take one of the slats and place it in the clamp of the chop saw so that the short side will be the side with the newly created cut out and make the first 45 degree cut.

Measure one of the sides of your picture, then take that measurement and measure from the short side of your freshly cut piece and make a mark.  This will be where you will start the cut on the other side.  (Note that the short sides will be on the same side of the newly cut board and both long sides will be on the other side.)
 

Cut your boards carefully and the frame will fit together like a puzzle. 

Next I glued the piece together using a fast acting 10 minute wood glue.  When it was set I felt I should add some more support so here is what I did.   

I set up the Proxxon mini drill press as seen below.  I turned the drill so it would drill off the side of the base because my frame would have been too tall.  I clamped it to the edge of my workbench.  I clamped the frame to the edge of the base of the drill press to hold it steady then lined up my drill to go straight through the center of the edge of the wood frame.  I lined it up 1/2" from the corner so my hole will continue through part of the side piece as well.  Then I drilled the hole at each of the 4 corners.

I placed a drop of my fast glue at each hole then inserted a 2" piece of skewer into each hole and I used a mallet to drive it into the hole.  Then I cut it off flush and sanded it using the Proxxon OZI./E delta sander.

I sanded the whole project using the OZI/E delta sander then sealed it with a wipe on stain.  

Optional-  I cut a piece of Plexiglas the exact size of the picture.  I did this with the Proxxon mini bandsaw with the toothless blade..  Lastly I laid first the Plexiglas, then the picture then a piece of cardboard (all the same size) onto the ledge and secured it with 4 staples at the corners.  I put on a saw tooth picture hanger and hung it on my wall.  Later I might add some fancy work, ie routing, woodburning, paint or whatever.  It's very sturdy.

That's it.  Trust me it was easy.  Way easier to build than to write about it.  

Hope you like it and might try it out.

Thanks for visiting.   Till the next one  Carol

I love Proxxon tools!!!  

How to Make a Table Decoration of a Cute Easter Rabbit with Eggs

This rabbit and eggs table decoration is sure to be a favorite at Easter. Proxxon tools make it easy and fun to create. The downloadable pattern is included.

Supplies and Equipment for the Rabbit and Eggs Easter decoration

• Downloadable pattern of rabbit and eggs
• Proxxon MICRO Bandsaw MBS/E
• Proxxon Scroll Saw DS 460
• Proxxon Bench Drill Press TBM 115 
• Wood or MDF scraps: ~ 8½" x 2" x ½" for base; ~ 5½" x 4" x ¼" or ½" for rabbit; ~ 4½" x 6" x ½" for eggs
• 1/8" dowel rod, thin skewer, or round toothpicks
• Gesso (optional)
• FolkArt acrylic paints

Instructions for making the Rabbit and Eggs Easter decoration

1. Print out the rabbit and eggs pattern.
2. Cover blanks for rabbit and eggs with painter's tape.
   
   
   
3. Mist the back side of the pattern with spray adhesive, and mount on the taped blank. The painter's tape makes removal of the pattern easy without leaving any sticky residue.
   
   
   
4. Cut out the shapes using either the bandsaw or the scroll saw.
   
   
   
5. Sand the edges of the cutouts on the disc sander.
   
   
   
6. Measure, mark, and drill holes in the sides of the eggs for the dowels rods. I varied the angle that my eggs would stand. Secure the eggs in the machine vice and use the adjustable fence for accuracy. Use the bench drill press to drill the holes.
   
   
   
7. Use the depth gauge to ensure holes are consistent in depth.
   
   
   
8. Mark the desired position of the rabbit and eggs on the base blank, and drill holes for the dowel rods. Use the bench drill press, adjustable fence, and depth gauge for accuracy.
9. Optional: Coat the the pieces with gesso prior to painting. Gesso primes the surface for the acrylic paints. I find it especially effective when working with MDF.
   
   
   
10. Paint the base, rabbit, and eggs. After the gesso, I painted the eggs with FolkArt Pearl Gold Brushed Metal paint, and gave each egg a final coat of a different color of FolkArt Glitterific paint. The rabbit was painted white, and the base was painted with FolkArt Color Shift paint.
    
    
    
11. Glue the dowel rods into each egg and the rabbit. Gluing the rods only in the figures makes disassembling and storage easy.
12. Add a handful of Easter grass and your decoration is ready for display.
    

Carole

How to make a glassy eyed cat

 Hi everybody.   Spring is here yay!  Time to start getting out and having some fun in the yard.  Today, purely for fun lets make a cat to stick wherever I want to in the yard.   I'm going to show you how easy it is to cut some metal and make a cat stake using Proxxon tools.

   

Supplies

Proxxon mini bandsaw

Metal cookie sheet

wood chisel or wide straight screwdriver

hammer.

scrap wood for stake

2 screws.

pliers

2 glass marbles

  First things first.  Lets draw our design.

The next thing I did was go to the Dollar Tree and bought a cheap cookie sheet.   I wish it were a little stouter but it will work.

I drew the pattern onto the cookie sheet then I proceeded to cut it out using the Proxxon mini bandsaw.  Truthfully, I usually only cut wood but I read the back of the blade packages and found out they cut all kinds of metal, including steel!  Wow!   So I cut it out.  It works, it cuts like butta.   :)

Here comes the tricky part, (not real tricky, just a little tricky), the eyes.  I decided I would use a little wood chisel to cut the eyes.   What we need is to cut an X or something similar.  It is going to hold the eyes.  

I used some spray paint I had on time to color the kitty.  

The next step is to bend the Xs.  Use a pair of pliers, this metal is very sharp.  I bent the horizontal ones backward and the vertical parts towards the front.  I messed with the angles until I had them where they would hold the marbles secure.

I used the Proxxon mini bandsaw to cut a scrap piece of wood into a stake and screwed the cat onto it.   There you have it.  The glassy eyed kitty stake.  It's going to look good in the yard.

Thanks for visiting.   This was a quick and fun project.  I learned that I can now cut various metals using the Proxxon mini bandsaw.     See you soon   Carol

How To Build A Clock Case

 

Hi everyone!  Today I'm going to show you how I built a simple clock case for a cross stitch piece I stitched over 30 years ago. The piece has been in my cedar chest, and I've often thought about finishing it. Follow along with me and I'll show you how I did it.

Supplies:

     Proxxon Table-Saw FET

     Proxxon MICRO-Bandsaw MBS 115/E

     Proxxon Cordless belt sander BS/A

     1" scrap pine boards

     Filigree Trim Molding (pine)

     Wood Glue

     Brad Nailer and Brads

     Plaid Paint  (black)

     Plaid Inspirations Clear Wax

     Small piece of window glass  (cut to fit)

First I measured my original piece of cross stitch soi could determine how large the opening for the face needed to be.  I made a sort of template from posterboard that I could build the frame around. Using the Proxxon Table Saw I cut my pieces accordingly from the template.  I cut two side pieces and a top and bottom face frame pieces. After I dry fit the top and bottom pieces, I removed them and using the table saw cut notches in them for the glass.  I also cut a slot in the two side pieces for the glass to slide in.

I glued and nailed the two side pieces to the bottom. I then slid in the glass and glued and nailed in the top piece.

I had to cut two spacers for the top and bottom to hold the clock hands away from the glass.

Next I cut a thin piece of scrap wood a little smaller than the size of the opening, to accommodate the fabric being folded over and to the back.  I dry fit the stitched piece in the frame.

Next, using the Proxxon table Saw,  I cut a top and bottom for the case. I glued and nailed them together with the sides. I went over some of the edges with the Proxxon belt sander.

Using the Proxxon Table Saw I cut a back for the case.  It was then I realized I had nothing to screw it into so again I cut two spacers and glued them in.

Lastly using the table Saw and the Micro Band Saw I cut some tiny filigree molding to go on the top and bottom of the case, and a rounded piece for the top.  Once each piece was cut, I glued them on.

With a little extra sanding, it's ready to paint and wax,  I used Plaid products.

After everything was dried, I inserted the stitched piece with the clockworks attached.

Here's my finished piece alongside a larger clock I made years ago.  Hope you enjoyed following along with my project!  

Colleen  :-)