This piece of jewelry really does make a statement—as it should. Any statement piece is easy to identity because it is chunky, unique, and attention-grabbing. This statement necklace is meant to be the defining piece of your outfit. It will set you apart from the crowd.
Supplies for Making the Statement Necklace
2" x 10" x ¼" piece of MDF
Four gold tone focal beads
Eight 6mm glass beads in a color to coordinate with you choice of napkin
Twelve 3mm to 4 mm glass beads in a color to coordinate with you choice of napkin
12" to 15" 24 gauge brass jewelry wire
14" to 20" gold tone jewelry chain (depending upon the length of your finished piece)
Prepare and mount the pattern on the 2" x 10" piece of MDF. To apply the pattern to the MDF, cover the MDF with painter's tape, spray the reverse side of the pattern with adhesive spray, and adhere the pattern on top of the painter's tape. The painter's tape allows for easy removal of the pattern.
Cut the necklace pieces using either the band saw, table saw, or scroll saw.
Sand the edges of the pieces on the disc sander.
Measure and mark ¼" from the tip of the piece and half the width of the piece for drilling the hole to attach the piece to the necklace.
Mount the marked piece in the machine vise and attach to the drill stand.
Drill a hole for attaching the piece to the necklace.
Repeat Steps 4 through 6 for each piece.
Coat all pieces with gesso.
Using Mod Podge and a napkin with a design of your choice, napkin collage the front of each piece.
When the Mod Podge is dry, paint the edges and reverse side of each piece with Classic Gold Liquid Leaf.
String MDF necklace pieces, focal beads, and glass beads on jewelry wire, and form a closed loop at each end of the wire.
Attach 7" to 10" of jewelry chain to each end of the wire.
Attach jewelry clasp to the ends of the chain.
Wear your statement necklace, and enjoy all the compliments that you'll receive.
Everyday objects can help young ones learn shapes and colors—and that is exactly what these napkin rings do. Plus they add a festive touch to your dining table.
Print the pattern for the napkin rings and adhere to wood. Cover the surface of the wood with painter's tape. Next, spray the back of the pattern with spray adhesive, and adhere pattern to top of the painter's tape. The spray adhesive holds the pattern in place, and the painter's tape makes for easy removal.
Use the band saw and scroll saw to cut out the napkin ring shapes. I do the straight cuts on the band saw, and the curves on the scroll saw.
Straight cuts using the band saw
Curved cuts using the scroll saw
Drill a pilot hole to insert the scroll saw blade, and cut out the center ring on each shape. Alternatively, these center holes can be cut using a forstner bit.
Sand the outer edges and rough areas using the disc sander or the Delta sander.
Orient the rotary tool in the drill stand to a horizontal position and with a sanding disc, sand the interior edges of the center ring.
Paint the napkin rings with FolkArt ColorShift paints. Set aside to dry.
Whimsical and primitive home decor items are great items for a beginner to make using their Proxxon tools. The lines don't have to be perfectly cut. Finish designs allow for wide interpretation. In fact, a bit of irregularity adds to the charms of fanciful decoration. Here's a whimsical chick to get you started.
Supplies and Equipment to Make the Whimsical Chick
10" x 4" length ¾" MDF
7" x 3½" length ¼" MDF
6" length 1/8" dowel rod, cut into twelve ½" pieces
Cut lengths of MDF on the table saw. The ¾" thick piece is for the chick's body, tail, beak, and comb. The ¼" thick piece is for the wing and feet.
Print the pattern and adhere to the appropriate pieces of MDF. Cover the surface of the MDF with painter's tape. Next, spray the back of the pattern with spray adhesive, and adhere pattern to top of the painter's tape. The spray adhesive holds the pattern in place, and the painter's tape makes for easy removal.
Use the band saw and scroll saw to cut out the shapes. I like to cut the straight lines on the band saw, and the curves on the scroll saw.
Cutting curves on scroll saw
Cutting straight lines on the band saw
Arrange the body, tail, beak, and comb pieces for adding positioning marks for support pegs.
With the pieces in position, scribe two matching lines on the body and accessory piece. Additionally, mark two holes on the bottom of the body piece and the center top of each foot for the "leg" cords that attach the feet.
Transfer the markings to the sides of each piece.
Mark the center of the width.
The intersections of the positioning marks and center line mark the holes for support pegs.
Using the professional rotary tool and drill stand, drill 1/8" holes for support pegs and cording to attach the feet.
Coat all the pieces with gesso.
When the gesso is dry, paint the pieces in your choice of colors.
Glue the support pegs into tail, beak, and comb pieces, and attach to body. Glue cording for the legs in place at the bottom of the body and top of the feet.
After the glue is dry, have fun decorating your whimsical chick. I used a combination of vinyl, paints, and beads on my chick.
I love Mid century modern architecture. Flat roofs are one my favorite design elements. The mix of experimental materials like steel and plywood also produces fantastic results.
1. The first step is to drill holes through the roof and in to the house for the supporting dowels. The challenge is that the roof is raised up off the birdhouse and sits at an angle. I knew I wanted it to be about 1" off the front of the house and about 1/2" off the back of the house, but didn't want to think about the math to calculate the angle. Then it hit me - just make a "tool" out of SmoothFoam to hold the roof in place while the holes are drilled!
Rest a piece of SmoothFoam on the top of the house. Mark the front and the back edges. Then measure up 1" from the front and 1" from the back. Draw a line connecting those dots. Now you have the exact angle you need, without doing any trigonometry! By the way, it turns out to be about 5 degrees.
3. Use glue dots to temporarily attach the SmoothFoam to the base of the house and the roof to the SmoothFoam.
4. Use a pencil and mark where the holes for the 4 support dowels need to be drilled. Use the rotary tool and a small bit to drill through the marks, past the SmoothFoam and in to the base of the house.
5. Now you can remove the roof and SmoothFoam from the base of the house. Be careful to only remove those two pieces as a unit. Keep them together. Now use the Proxxon Bench Drill Press TBM 115 with the chuck and 1/4" bit to drill the holes in the base. You only need to go in to the base about 1/4-1/2". Drill the holes in to the roof as well. Keep the roof sitting on the SmoothFoam so you're sure you're drilling at the correct angle.
6. Put the SmoothFoam and Roof back on to the house.
7. Cut 4 lengths of 1/4" dowel using the Proxxon Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80. I used (2) pieces that were about 2" long and (2) pieces that were about 3" long.
8. Put some wood glue in to the holes in the roof and insert the 4 dowels all the way in to the base. We want to glue the dowels to the roof (but NOT to the base). Put a weight on top to hold the roof down while the glue sets. The dowels will be sticking up above the roof. Let the glue set completely.
9. Use a rotary tool with a cutting wheel to trim the dowels as close to the roof as possible.
10. Take the roof off of the house and remove the SmoothFoam jig. Save it so you can make more houses in the future! Sand the dowels smooth against the roof using the Proxxon Disc Sander TG 125/E.
11. Spray paint the roof with . Be sure to do this in a well ventilated area. If you're inside, it helps to spray this piece inside a cardboard box to catch any over-spray. Now you see why we didn't glue the roof to the house! Let dry completely.
12. Seal and protect the outside of the house with linseed oil. Rub it in using a cotton cloth (rag). Don't apply it to the inside of the house. Let dry completely.
13. Put some wood glue inside the 4 holes in the house and then put the roof in place. Weight the top to hold it down until the glue sets. Remember, you access the house through the flip-up side for cleaning, so this roof can be put permanently in place.
Your Mid Century Modern Bird House (improved design) is now ready for renters! You can attach it to a post or a wall using pipe fittings you would find at a hardware store, like this flange.
Mid century modern architecture featured simplicity and an integration with nature. Flat planes, including a flat roof, were key elements in this style of architecture. With World War II came experimental technologies and materials like steel and plywood, which were leveraged for building after the war. We can incorporate these design elements to create a mid century modern birdhouse that's updated with what we know about our feathered friends.
Design Improvements
This project was inspired by the Modern Birdhouse created by Chris Gardner back in April 2011 for CURBLY. I started with his design and then added a little "bird know-how" to make sure it was appropriate for today's flying home hunters. I think these four changes make the house even more functional while keeping it's beautiful design.
The original design uses smooth cedar. To make it easier for the young to leave the house when they are ready to fledge, I used cedar that's smooth (finished) on one side and rough (unfinished) on the other. Place the rough side of the wood to the inside of the house.
The original design uses 1/8" Luan plywood for the floor (base). To make the base more substantial, so it's more stable on a mounting bracket, I used the same cedar as the sides.
The original design has as solid base. To ensure there is proper drainage to keep the nest and its contents dry, I added 1/4" drain holes in each corner of the floor.
In the original design, the roof is not permanently attached. You lift off the roof to gain access inside the house to clean it. I was concerned the roof could be lifted off by some of our high-wind rain storms or be pried off by a predator's little paws, so this design attaches the roof permanently and provides a hinged side that can be lifted up to clean the inside of the house.
Proxxon tools make it easy to work on a small project like this. The scale of the tools is perfect for a project this size.
In this post we'll build the floor and walls. In the follow-up post, we'll create the roof, assemble it and finish the house with linseed oil and paint.
What You'll Need
Rough Cedar 1x6, cut to:
(2) 5 1/2" lengths (front and back)
(2) 4" lengths (sides)
(1) 4 x 3-11/16" (bottom)
Luan plywood, cut to:
(1) 8 1/2 x 8 1/2"
1/4" hardwood dowel (oak or maple is preferable to poplar)
Use the Proxxon Scroll Saw DSH/E to cut out the circle. Fit the blade through the pilot hole and then cut around the pencil mark. Sand the finished hole.
Drill 1/4" drainage holes in each corner of the floor (base), about 1" from each edge.
Glue 4 of the five pieces together (front, back, 1 side, floor). The easiest way to do this is to apply glue to all the edges that touch except for any edge that touches one side. Then put all the pieces together and hold them in place with the clamps until the glue is set. You should be able to completely remove the side after the glue has set. You're only putting the side in place to help hold it all together while the glue sets on all the other pieces. Be sure the rough sides face inside the house.
Drill a 1/4" hole from the front in to the side that hasn't been glued, about 1/2" down from the top. Go through the front and about 1/2" in to the side. Do this on each side of the side. Each of these two holes will be fitted with a dowel that will make a hinge, letting you lift the side up to clean the house.
Take the side out and use the Proxxon Disc Sander TG 125/E to remove a bit of the width. You want the side to be able to lift up and down easily. Just sand a bit, try it, and repeat until you feel it opens and closes easily.
Put the side in place and insert the dowel in to one side. Mark the desired length and cut it with the Proxxon Chop and Miter Saw KGS 80 about 1/16" of an inch shorter than your mark. Repeat the process on the other side.
Insert the dowels in to the holes and side and push them in until they are flush with the walls. The side should easily swing opened and closed.
You should have a solid box now, that makes the sides and floor of our mid century modern birdhouse. In my next post, Mid Century Modern Bird House (Part 2 - The Roof and Finishing Touches), we'll create the roof, assemble it and finish the house with linseed oil and paint.
